The gentle but brilliant Agnes Paquet (Meloisey, Côte de Beaune) has made an enticing Crémant from Aligoté grapes – but only fermenting up to 8% alcohol, then bottling and letting the yeast and sugar produce the bubbles naturally in the bottle. The result is a lively wine (watch out for a big pop) with gorgeous acidity and a little natural grape sweetness – and even a touch of natural cloud in the wine. 8%